Fresh peas are plush, meaty, and rich. Next time you see peas in the pod at the marketΓÇöfrom spring through early summerΓÇötreat yourself to a feast. Select medium-sized pods that are bright green, moist, firm, and filled end to end with fat peas. Avoid those that are blemished and puffy. Petits pois are baby peas in which the bumps under the pod are developed but tiny. Store peas in their pods in perforated plastic vegetable bags in the refrigerator crisper.
Allow 3/4 to 1 pound pods per serving (to yield 3/4 to 1 cup peas).
To Prepare: At cooking time, rinse the pods, then shell the peas into a bowl. Snap off the stem and pull it down the sideΓÇöa string will come with it, unlocking the seal. Press the pod at the seam, pulling it open on either side, and the peas will pop out. No need to rinse them. (Reserve some pods for sweetening soup stock.)
To Sweat: For every 1 cup peas, place the peas in a heavy skillet with 2 or 3 empty pods. Add 3 tablespoons stock or water, 1 1/2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon minced scallions or onions, 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh parsley or mint, 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt (if using unsalted stock or water), and a pinch of ground white pepper. Stir, bring to a simmer, then arrange a handful of finely shredded lettuce on top (1 handful is enough, regardless of the volume of peas). Cover and simmer, shaking the pan frequently, until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Add a little more liquid if needed during cooking.
To Boil: Bring 8 cups water and 2 teaspoons salt to a rolling boil in a large saucepan. Add shelled garden peas, return to a boil, and cook, uncovered, just until tender, 4 to 10 minutes, depending on size and age. Older, starchier garden peas will cook in 7 to 10 minutes.
To Steam: Place the peas in a steamer basket over 1 to 2 inches of boiling water and cook, covered, until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. If there is more than 1 layer, stir once or twice during cooking.
To Microwave: Place 2 cups fresh peas in a 1-quart baking dish. Add 1/4 cup stock or lightly salted water. Cover and cook on high until tender, 4 to 6 minutes, stirring after 3 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 3 minutes.